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Its all in the Game

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Article written by 06 March 2014

Welcome to the first installment of a mini series of articles looking at different types of game and some wine pairings you may want to experiment with/already know about/ disregard completely and drink whatever takes your fancy – and there’s nothing wrong with that. If you enjoy claret with cheesecake or Riesling with roast beef, carry on.

Let’s start with venison as it is still in season.

Essentially you can treat venison as you would beef joints, but bear in mind that venison’s inherent rich, gamey flavour combined with its leanness doesn’t respond well to tannin in wine, so whether you’re casseroling or roasting, plump for something with some pleasingly ripe, rounded fruit flavours: a Rioja, Australian or South African Shiraz or an Italian Barbera for example, or a wine with some maturity that may have a similar gamey quality and whose tannins will have softened, such as a red Burgundy or Rhône red (A quick aside: tannins are the compounds extracted from the grape’s skins, seeds and stems during the winemaking process, and also possibly from wooden barrels that the wine might have been fermented or matured in, that lead to the drying, grippy, cheek-puckering sensation associated with red wines.)

If you are cooking your meat quickly and hence serving it rarer you could consider a younger, more tannic wine, but always consider what, if any, sauce you’re serving it with, or what it’s been marinated in. Often sauces and marinades will impart the dominant flavour and this should have an overriding influence on what wine to serve.

If you’re using wine to cook with, I’m with the late Keith Floyd: “If you can’t drink it, don’t cook with it.” A further consideration is if cooking a regional recipe from a wine producing country, the local wine should be an ideal starting point.

Six of the best

Scotto Zinfandel, £8.99. A cracking ripe, succulent Californian red with plushly textured black cherry and bramble fruit, soft tannins and a sweet note of vanilla. A perfect complement to slow cooked dishes or those in rich, winey sauces.

scotto zinfandel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spice Route “Chakalaka”, £14.99. A barnstorming, flavoursome South African take on the Southern Rhône blend. Big flavours of cherry and plum with smoky notes and a complex savoury, leathery, spicy quality. Open it up, let it breathe and serve with seared venison. Lovely.

Spice-Route-Chakalaka

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pasquiers Grenache from the Languedoc is a veritable bargain, being a modest £6.99 and packed with juicy, peppery fruit and a twist of liquorice. Great value and an easy partner for a venison casserole or venison sausages with creamy mash.

pasquiers-grenache-noir

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Barbera D’Asti “Blina”, £13.99. From Piedmont in NW Italy, this benefits from being open or decanted for an hour or so to best reveal its sensuously textured ripe black cherry and raspberry fruit. Its natural acidity makes it an ideal pairing for recipes with fruit sauces such as redcurrant or cranberry (Delia has a lovely recipe for Cumberland cranberry sauce with venison steaks).

Blina

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pinot Noir is many people’s go to wine for game due to its appealing sweeter fruit flavours, milder tannins and silky texture, with mature wines, particularly those from Burgundy, showcasing its ability to develop gamey, farmyardy flavours (stinky wines, yum) that complement all manner of game dishes so well. It can also be rather expensive.

The Crusher is neither Burgundian, nor too dear at £10.99. It’s a terrific example of the silky charms of the grape from the US and offers bright, mouthfilling strawberry and red berry fruit with subtle notes of smoke and herbs and would be a treat with venison and wild mushroom sauce.

Crusher Pinot bottle 005

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mature wines aren’t going to be cheap but Spain provides opportunities to pick up well priced wines with some nice age to them – Dehesa La Granja 2006, £14.99 being a prime example. Tempranillo is the grape here and this is top notch wine from a superb producer from Castilla y Leon in NW Spain. This is beautifully ripe and smooth, still fresh and juicy, with a nice oaky influence and a gentle spice. Broad, full and complex, this is one to open when you’re entertaining and roasting a saddle of venison.

Dehesa La Granja

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All prices quoted are for single bottles. A 10% discount will be applied for Powell’s customers quoting GAMEBLOG.

 

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